?

Log in

No account? Create an account

Katya Knyazeva's scrapbook

Shanghai history and architecture


Article
orphan
avezink
Here is a Xinmin Weekly article; the author Shen Jialu was at my presentation on February 11. Time to assume 俄罗斯美女学者 as my official designation.

痴迷上海老城厢的美女老外

沈嘉禄 新民周刊 Today

来源:老有上海味道

作者:沈嘉禄

今年春节的调性有点灰,阳光吝啬,淫雨连绵,似乎能捏出一把水的寒气把人堵在家里,惟有一口沸腾的火锅才能慰藉一颗狂燥的心。上海土著还能扛一下,北方人实在受不了,涕泪满面,苦大仇深。不过同样从北方来的美女张霞一脸的“刀枪不入”,她出生在俄罗斯新西伯利亚,从小就在雪堆里打滚,在冰水里洗澡,当她满面春风地出现在我们面前时,她的衣着与上海男人的臃肿装束形成强烈反差。

这天是初七,桃江路一幢老洋房里,老房子俱乐部开始新年的第一场讲座,张霞一边投映她用胶卷拍的照片,一边跟我们讲述她在老城厢角角落落寻找历史足迹的故事。

张霞(KatyaKnyazeva)在故乡读的是工程和经济专业,毕业后在韩国获得数字设计硕士学位。看来她是由兴趣引导而进入历史领域的。2006年她受韩国出版商的委托,第一次来上海寻找一位合适的插图画家,不知她是否找到了插图画家,反正她把自己留在了上海。她说:“上海这座多变的城市令人着迷,令人感觉到全中国最平淡无奇又最野心勃勃的人都纷纷涌入这座城市,为了出人头地,跃跃欲试。”

这种感觉,在以前的沙逊、哈同、邬达克、村松梢风、横光利一等“外来客”身上都曾经有过。

一开始,为了获得一种历史感和现场感,张霞租住在武康大楼,着手研究上世纪二十年代白俄群体在法租界社区的生活历史。她为此写了一本书并在东亚和欧盟出版,成为研究西方人在上海史实的专家。

写到这里不禁想起近年来本人接待过的多位老外,有记者也有作家,他们对上海的黑历史情有独钟,往往是一落笔就能赢得喝彩,魔都的传奇对西方人而言是一个长销不衰的卖点。老外讲故事的套路与我们有很大的不同,但是张霞用中国人容易接受的方式讲述。

走进老城厢,或许是一个偶然。张霞说:“我记得第一次进入老城区,是在从董家渡面料市场出发的路上,……走在老城区,我可以感觉到古老的东西还活着。当我试着研究上海老城区时,我发现英语资料很少,所以我开始编写一个英文版的摄影集。一边拍照,一边做系统的历史研究,先后花了好几年,投入研究的时间超过拍照花去的时间。我给这本书起名为:《上海老城:一个幽灵城市》,研究的内容成为第一卷:老码头。”

现在这本书也已出版,我们那天看到的许多照片都收入了书里。

我对张霞刮目相视的原因是,她比中国的一般的记者、学者、老房子研究者进入得更深,当一些有着百年以上历史的老房子准备拆除或已经动工时,她神不知鬼不觉地出现在工地的断砖碎瓦上,凭着她的老外身份,或许还凭着她的美貌和能说一点洋腔洋调的中国话,她取得了工人师傅的信任。她拍下了商船会馆、董家渡路、陆伯鸿故居、书隐楼、金家坊、沈家大宅、薛家弄、梓园、乔一琦故居、鸡毛弄、荷花池……,她甚至知道有些老房子里的梁柱门窗包括牛腿、雀替的精美木雕最终卖给古董商人多少钱。

“现在,都没有了。”每放一帧照片,她都会这样嘀咕一声。最后自己也笑了,无可奈何的咧着嘴。这个时候我觉得她是最可爱的。

有点意外的是,从她嘴里我得知乔家路要动迁了。

四天后我才从黄浦区政府有关公告中得知:乔家路地块东至巡道街、中华路,南至俞家弄、黄家路,西至河南南路、南梅溪弄、凝和路,北至蓬莱路、西唐家弄、梅家街,共有居民权证数超5800证,范围内以成片二级以下旧里房屋为主,建造年代久远、结构老化严重,生活环境简陋。

乔家路就在我家北面两三百米处,晚饭后我经常从中华路拐进乔家路走一圈,从王一亭的梓园、郁泰丰故居、乔一琦故居一直走到徐光启祖居九间楼。有时候还会去徐家祠堂看一眼,那里已经成了一家制衣车间。我曾经在梦中看到一只电熨斗引发大火,徐家祠堂一眨眼烧成两片在风中颤抖的山墙。

不是我故意触霉头,现实生活中,几乎每个月都会有消防车从我家窗下呼啸而过,一股浓烟从董家渡路、府谷街或糖坊弄一带升起。乔家路上的房子都有些年头了,空间狭窄、商居混杂的空间特征,使这个一百年前的富人区沦为黄浦居住条件最差、密度最高、各类隐患最突出的穷街。

而且多由外来务工人员租住,他们还在用马桶和痰盂!经过前些年的交通整治,路面上终于不再有抢车位的大叔大妈守候在晚风中了。我有两个朋友还留守在乔家路的老房子里,他们盼望早点动迁,能够在晚年住上有煤卫设施的新房子。我也曾三次与有关领导一起考察过乔家路,提出过种种保护设想,我对乔家路历史风貌保护区的未来有热切期待和美好想象的。

乔家路当然再也回不去它作为一条河流的原始状态,也不会再出现英国人麦法兰在《上海县城:街道、寺庙、监狱以及园林》一文中出现的令人羞愧的镜头,比如算命瞎子、叫花子、赌徒、杂耍卖艺人等,但是好几处名人故居和典型的石库门弄堂应该保留下来,名人后代能不能在故居维持原生态的存在也值得研究,因为这里是上海文化的原点,每一幢房子里都隐藏着上海城市发展的线索与密码。

解读上海,从这里开始。

张霞,作为一个俄罗斯美女学者,虽然后来离开上海去意大利,但一直从网上关注有关上海的消息。这次她在博洛尼亚和伦敦两年后回到上海,惊喜地发现除了微信支付之外,上海的城区格局没有太大变化,城改节奏已经放缓。张霞坦率表示不喜欢建业里与荣宅的保护模式,她喜欢在周末骑自行车沿着延庆路,安福路,永嘉路转几圈。“在这些街区还能看到有人文历史的建筑和充满活力的市民生活。”

她说:“上海市政府承诺‘保护其90%的历史建筑和里弄街区’,我听了既感到兴奋但又怀疑。我希望在2019年这个承诺能够实现,更重要的是,我希望在2019年,在城市的变化过程中能听到历史街区居民的声音。

 
我与张霞(左)和建筑学家娄承浩先生(右)在老房子俱乐部的讲座上



Scan QR Code via WeChat
to follow Official Account


Over 2,000 historic photos of Shanghai mapped on PastVu
orphan
avezink

The narrow edge of the very characteristic Star Garage allowed to map this photo on Bubbling Well Road. Image: Virtual Shanghai.

The latest hundred additions include:

- every view of the infamous Blood Alley (Rue Chu Pao San 朱葆三路) that I could find;
- all the identifiable locations along Yang-King-Pang (Yangjingbang 洋泾浜);
- lots of views of the old French Consulate including the time it was under construction;
- more views of the Messageries Maritimes;
- various views of Jing'an Temple 静安寺 and Bubbling Well 涌泉;
- Ford Hire Service opposite from the Jing'an Temple;
- a rare view in front of the Bishop Apartments;
- gate of the English Cemetery adjacent to the old city wall;
- various views of Chung Wai Bank 中汇银行;
- various views of the Louza Police Station and its surroundings;
- and many more.

Link to the map



You can switch between the base maps and use the street grid, Google Scheme, Google Satellite or Yandex Satellite (sometimes sharper than Google).

To switch between architectural drawings and photographs, select the icon with the landscape or the photocamera. To open each image in a new window click the icon with the arrow to the left of the word "Google:"



"Ghettoizing" the old town
orphan
avezink
https://www.shine.cn/news/metro/1902179668/

Chinese press has a way of putting everything on its head, manipulating the concepts and using emotionally charged words to misrepresent the reality. This article twice calls the old town a "ghetto," from which its residents are getting "freed" by the redevelopment. But "ghetto" is not the old town. "Ghettoes" are the low-grade apartment buildings on the periphery of Shanghai where the old Shanghainese are being resettled. These poor folks in the old town have their rundown quarters on some really valuable land, but the ones benefitting from the land's price are going to be some foreign financiers, local officials, developers and contractors.

Evidently, this was the plan: to drive local, established, central communities into poverty for decades, doing nothing about their worsening conditions, letting them watch the growing riches of Shanghai, so that in the end they are easily lured out of their places by the promise of a personal toilet – somewhere, anywhere at this point. This destructive technique is called "purposeful slumming"; Jane Jacobs talks about. It is a predatory, criminal behavior on the part of the "People's" government.

Now I'm all the more embarrassed that I talked to the same "journalist" Xu Lingchao and did not raise any objections when made-up phrases appeared in print as my own a couple of weeks ago. I held him to a low standard ("come one, easy on Chinese journalism, you know what it's like") where I should have been critical.


The scope of the upcoming redevelopment will harm the most vibrant and historically valuable part of the old town. Map: avezink.

#120 Shanghai Architecture Series in Russian: Chung Wai (Zhonghui) Bank
orphan
avezink
https://magazeta.com/2019/02/arc-zhonghuidasha/




Deciphering inscriptions on shikumen gates
orphan
avezink
There is an ongoing series Forever Shikumen 永远的石库门 where the brilliant 井蟾斋主 decodes and interpets plaques placed above the gates of shikumen residences in Shanghai. Here is the latest issue, No. 13:

Sohu version: https://www.sohu.com/a/294587854_99943237?sec=wd
Wechat version: https://mp.weixin.qq.com/s/EXwBFLkk0imkvNpLqknP5g



He also has a collection of old town's boundary stones!

Shanghai Daily mention
orphan
avezink
As a follow-up to the lovely meeting with the Shanghai Old Houses Club (上海老房子俱乐部), an interview came out in Shanghai Daily. Some of the quotes are inaccurate: "Good to see the city take a break from barbaric growth to focus more on development of culture" is not really my voice or opinion, but oh well.



And here is the meeting:




Sixth Tone on Laoximen (article)
orphan
avezink
A good article on Laoximen in Sixth Tone, accompanied by this beautiful personalized map illustrating generational ties to this neighborhood:

Image: Liu Chang for Sixth Tone.

I met Mr. Wu in 2013, and now I was happy to know his story.




#119 Shanghai Architecture Series: Louza Police Station
orphan
avezink
https://magazeta.com/2019/02/louza/



The development of the Development Building
orphan
avezink
An odd fact: the Development Building 建设大楼, opposite the Metropole, was meant to be one part with the Central Police Station 总巡捕房.


Architect D. G. Miriams' drawing of the planned corner building. Image: The China Press, 10 Dec 1931.

The illustration above announced the plan to create a six-story building on the corner of Kiangse and Foochow Roads to house "all branches of the central police force, including the Criminal Investigation Bureau, Police Department, Fingerprint Department, and numerous special branches [...] at present scattered over all parts of the central district." This was published when Metropole and Hamilton House were already rising on two other corners of this intersection.

Instead, the Central Police Station was built in 1933 not on the corner, but in the middle of the block, while the corner was taken up by the Development Building rising much higher than the architect's vision. I think this was for the best, as it created the most impressive intersection anywhere in the International Settlement, firmly pinning down the center of the business district. You can see various angles of it at PastVu.


Part of the Development Building (left) and Central Police Station (center) in 1937. Image: Harrison Forman, AGSL at UWM.


The version of the corner building that was built in 1934 for the Commercial Bank of China, by Davies, Brooke & Gran. Image: minguotupian.com.


The Development Building.


Over 1,900 historic photos of Shanghai mapped on PastVu
orphan
avezink

Even luggage tags can be mapped! Image: ebay.

The most recent additions include:

- every view of the Pushkin Monument I could find, in various versions of the bronze bust;
- the only view I know of the largest Russian restaurant La Renaissance;
- this one was tricky! New New Stage (Xin Xin Wutai 新新舞台) that used to be where the Wing-On Tower was built in 1932;
- Shanghai Banking Corporation, architectural drawing and photo;
- rare image of St. Olga's Orphanage in the French Concession (I wrote about it here);
- a variety of drawings and photos of the Chinese YMCA on Sichuan Road;
- various views of the old and new Messageries Maritimes (I wrote about it here);
- some street views are hard to identify, and I have to check by the names of the stores: corner of Fuzhou Road and Fujian Road, Madunhe Hat Store, Sichuan Goods Store, "God Save Our Sale" at Sung Kee.
- I like to tease images out of newspaper pages; this one shows Yih Pin Shang and Jue Lu Hotels at the background;
- Each July 14th issue of Le journal de Shanghai had boastful photo essays about the development of the French Concessions, with some rare views, like this view of the Willow Court and Boissezon Apartments;
- from the same source, this unusual angle of the Cathay Mansions...
- ...and the Church of Christ the King on Rue Bourgeat, which unfortunately has not survived;
- beautiful drawing of the Metropole Hotel;
- Liza Hardoon Building as a drawing in 1935 and under construction in 1937;
- various views of Hope Bros. store;
- Nanking Theatre on Avenue Edward VII under construction;
- and many more.

Link to the map



You can switch between the base maps and use the street grid, Google Scheme, Google Satellite or Yandex Satellite (sometimes sharper than Google).

To switch between architectural drawings and photographs, select the icon with the landscape or the photocamera. To open each image in a new window click the icon with the arrow to the left of the word "Google:"