Katya Knyazeva (avezink) wrote,
Katya Knyazeva

Mapping historic Hongkou

Having absorbed multiple historic images of the Jewish neighborhood in Hongkou, I could not resist putting them on a map, starting with Chusan Road (now Zhoushan Road 舟山路). Its best-documented part is the southern block, stretching from Wayside (now Huoshan Road 霍山路) to Ward Road (now Changyang Road 长阳路). Perhaps, it is thanks to the vibrancy of this particular section of the street that the neighborhood was tagged 'Little Vienna.' All of the architecture here has survived, except for the demolished White Horse cafè that was later rebuilt at a different corner. You can click on any image to go to its location.

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At the southeastern corner of Chusan Road, facing Wayside (Huoshan Road), stands the building used by the Joint Distribution Committee (1):

Source: Yad Vashem collections.

Behind it there is a similar building (2) where the photographer Horst Eisfelder's family lived in a room on the second floor:

Source: Yad Vashem collections.

Let's take a walk along Chusan Road, starting from the south. Here is the southern end of the block, at the corner of Wayside (3):

Source: Walter Arrufat.

The western side of Chusan Road is comprised of decorative brick three-story houses with small gardens in front, constructed in 1920 (some sources and plaques say 1910). Here is the southern end, with the Wiener cafe-restaurant Delikat, a dentist upstairs, and the Radio store next door. We are looking south here (4):
Source: https://lascheratlarge.com/.

The USHMM website has an ad for Delikat that mentions its address, 23 Chusan Road.

Closeup of Wiener Cafe Restaurant Delikat and the dentist E. Warschauer:

Source: unknown.

Next is the central part of the block, showing a furniture store, a restaurant, a goldsmith, and a provision store (5):

Source: https://lascheratlarge.com/.

Moving further north, here is the gateway No. 69, shared by the men's tailor Joseph Wank and the jeweller M. Schachter. The Restaurant Rosenthal, originally located in Berlin, emerged next door after 1941 (6):

Source: https://lascheratlarge.com/.

Here is the northern end of the block (7), with the signs for Joseph Wank and M. Schachter again, and the Cafe International of A. E. Mikiladze at the end of the block, at No. 81:

Source: Yad Vashem collections.

Meanwhile, the east side of Chusan Road is lined with stores and restaurants located in three-story houses built in 1940 (specially for the refugees, it seems). Here is one of the storefronts, Wiener-Konditorei, at No. 42, between two fashion shops (8):

Source: LMU collections.

Here is Boris Cafe (Only Cash) (9):

Source: LMU collections.

Here is another business, the Promenaden Cafe. I cannot confirm its address, so I haven't mapped it:

Source: Yad Vashem collections.

Further down the road, the entrance to Lane 54 on Chusan Road is entitled United Building (10). It leads to a restaurant approved by Rabbi Ashkenazi, the business consultant Martin Glass and the tailors Weiskopf and Herta Camnitzer, Dr Loewenstamm, the dentist A. Klemann and the United Knitwear Factory:

Source: Google Arts and Culture.

Going through the gate, one gets inside a very narrow alley (11) runing behind the storefronts and the second row of houses; we see a sign for the judiciary Steindler:

Source: Yad Vashem collections.

At the northern end of this stretch of Chusan Road, where it intersects Ward Road (Changyang Road 长阳路), stands the Ohel Moishe Synagogue. I haven't found any historic photos of its exterior, only this lovely wedding portrait:

Source: The China Press, 1931.

(Thanks to the kind clarification from Dvir Bar-Gal, the White Horse was mapped at its proper historic location.)

At the southwestern corner of Ward Road and Macgregor Road (Lintong Road 临潼路)
Across from the synagogue, at the northwestern corner of Ward Road stands the famous nightclub and restaurant Zum Weissen Röss'l, or the White Horse Inn:

Source: Yad Vashem collections.

There are other great photographs of this area, and if I have time and energy, I might continue mapping East Seward Road, Ward Road, Tongshan Road, Wayside and Broadway.

Tags: 1930s, 1940s, chusan road, ghetto, hongkou, jews, mapping, restaurants, russians, shanghai, synagogue, white horse cafe, 舟山路, 虹口

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